Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Crème Caramel...and she turned eighteen







She is eighteen.  Eighteen.  I keep rolling the words around my tongue as I savor this profound change.  She has become my best friend and now my adult daughter.  


When I look at her I see the little roly-poly 3 year old with big soulful eyes that absorbed life's details so carefully and thoughtfully.


Or, I see the gangly 12 year old, waving goodbye with a soft smile as she trained for ballet for six weeks thousands of miles away from home.


And then there is the bookish teenager, deeply absorbed in novel after novel... so thankful to be homeschooling so she could geek out on chemistry at the same time as  Jane Austen everything.




As in all aspects of her life, simplicity is a cornerstone of her world.  I knew to give her my recipe book of simple desserts to choose for her birthday rather than think about or plan for a bevy of fancy frosted confections.


Crème Caramel.  Her choice. Simple but with depth and character...just like her.




This February birthday baby has had many birthdays filled with frigid icy temperatures in Michigan, New York, and then Kansas.  We've planned the 'garden' party and the 'tea' party trying to warm up a month known for being in a deep winter slumber.




Delightfully, this will be the second birthday here in the south where the sun is shining, cool breezes are flowing, and a variety of fresh flowers are possible to obtain.




But, a few towering confections made their way into the weekend celebrations.  She was gifted with these incredible cupcakes from a new cupcake shop here in town.  


They were enjoyed, in all honesty, but not quite as celebrated and savored as the crème caramel.  That flip of the caramel was anticipated with hushed suspense.  The slide of the custard onto the plate called for crossed fingers.  The beautiful amber sauce that pooled around the custard was indeed satisfying to ogle.  And the first soft velvety bite of that vanilla infused custardy goodness was so delectable.



We all enjoyed a slow and cherished weekend, punctuated by dinners out on the town with new shoes as well as scented roses nesting at the breakfast table.  M.'s beloved books are always nearby and new ones piled up to add to her bulging collection.




At the beginning of the year, the shock of college readiness, tests, forms, interviews, and college trips struck chords of fear as well as pushed acceptance that her high school years are coming to a close.


As I was busy with worries of this fear and that concern, she was delightedly basking in websites portraying dorm room options and potential club activities.


"Mom, this one has a 'manga' club!"  Or, this college has a french-speaking only dorm" she read off excitedly.





She is ready. 


So.


We are ready.


That is the best gift that she can bestow upon us as parents.  I am no longer searching backwards with longing.  I am now side by side with her looking forward to her next turn of life's corner.


Polly Wolly peeking at what is absorbing my attention


And what would M.'s memories be without her beloved little cat, Polly.  Polly, indeed, is here cautiously and adorably peeking out at my intense interest in this delectable dessert.


Crème Caramel is a wonderful dessert for making ahead.  The little cups of the caramel can be made the day before a dinner and refrigerated.  Right before dessert, the cups are flipped over onto a plate and voila...a sweet and sophisticated presentation.




Planning birthdays will be a different affair next year.  I revel in the thought of bundling care package delights and pre-arranged surprises to be planned.


I look forward with amusement and great curiosity to her showing us her world, her people, her interests, her discoveries.


After planning, schooling, moving, organizing, and often worrying for so many years, I am tickled at the thought of sitting back and watching her master her surroundings.




For all of you who have written to me with seniors in high school, about to embark on this treasured and exciting time, and college age kids, thank you sincerely for your compassion, advice, and thoughtfulness.  


Most of all, thank you for just sharing your thoughts with me about this next leg of ours and your family journey.


**Pleased to learn that my blog has been nominated as one of the choices for "Best Food Photography"  for this year's The Kitchn Homies. If you would like,  you can vote here.





Crème Caramel
(makes 6 ramekins)



2/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup water
1 cup milk
1 cup heavy cream
5 egg yolks
1/2 cup caster or fine sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Directions
Special equipment: a pastry brush, 6 (4-ounce) ramekins


Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.


Place the sugar and water in a heavy-bottomed saucepot over low heat. Let the sugar dissolve. Carefully brush the walls of the pot with a little water to prevent the sugar from crystallizing on the sides. Increase the heat to medium-high and boil until the syrup turns golden brown. (Snippet's Note:  do not walk away.  First time, I burned the sugar caramel because it can instantly turned brown.) Remove from the heat promptly and carefully divide the hot caramel among the 6 ramekins. Let cool for at least 2 minutes.


In a medium saucepan, bring the milk and cream to just below a boil over medium-high heat. (Snippet's Note:  you can also scrape the inside of a vanilla bean instead of using extract and put the seeds and bean in the simmering milk.  Just be sure to take the bean out afterwards)  Meanwhile, mix together the egg yolks, caster sugar, and vanilla if not using a real bean)  in a large mixing bowl.  Gently whisk 2 tablespoons of the hot milk mixture into the egg mixture. This is called 'tempering'. You do not want the eggs to cook so you keep whisking and adding the eggs slowly.  Slowly whisk in the remaining hot milk mixture 1/3 at a time, trying to prevent excess bubbles. 


Place your tray for the 'bain marie' in the oven.  The tray will be half filled with water for your 'bain marie'.   Fill each one of the caramel-coated ramekins. Place the 'bain marie' tray on the extended middle rack of the oven. Place the six ramekins in the tray.  Carefully pour hot water into the baking dish until 2/3 of the way up the sides of the ramekins. (Be careful not to get any water on the custard mixture.) Cover the baking dish with aluminum foil and very gently slide it towards the center of the rack. Bake for about 35-40 minutes, or until the custards are almost fully set. Remove from the oven. Use tongs to remove the ramekins from the hot water bath. Let stand at room temperature for 5 minutes, then refrigerate until well chilled.


To serve, dip the ramekin in very hot water for 15 to 20 seconds. Run a sharp knife around the sides of the ramekin. Put a serving plate on top of the ramekin and invert.  The custard will slide out and the caramel will pool around the custards onto the plate. Serve immediately.


Friday, February 24, 2012

Spicy Shrimp, Andouille Sausage, Roast Chicken, and Okra Gumbo...and the Tiny Cajun Town of Breaux Bridge




Breaux Bridge, Louisiana.  It's a tiny town. A tiny, tiny town.  You could probably take a deep breath once you cross the bridge arriving in town and hold it until you pass through on the other side.  


Just the kind of town that  reveals the secrets of small town America ~ cornerstones of hospitality and good eats.


On our weekend getaway, we decided to stay out of the hustle and bustle of nearby Lafayette and instead chose the sleepy, nostalgic, quintessential cajun town called  Breaux Bridge, or Pont Breaux as the locals say.



It's all about crawfish in this town.  In fact, Pont Breaux is the largest producer of crawfish in the world.  The early Cajun settlers watched the native American Indians trap for them.  


Being poor and hungry, the Cajun settlers learned to adopt this crustacean into their humble diets.




Gumbo is a signature dish of many Cajuns in this area.  Everyone has their opinions about what makes the ideal combination of gumbo - chicken and okra, or okra and shrimp, or sausage and okra...oyster...crawfish...


The variations shuffle according to family traditions but everyone agrees that an authentic gumbo starts from a beautifully slow cooked richly browned "roux".


Roast Chicken




A "roux" is a base of equal parts flour and fat that is stirred and stirred until it turns the perfect color brown...saddle brown...strongly brewed coffee with a touch of cream brown...or a rich milk chocolate brown.  This slow cooked "roux" gives the gumbo its distinctive flavor.


In our family, gumbo was the main course every year on Christmas Eve.  All of the gumbo plates were turned upside down at the table.  As children, we knew and feverishly anticipated what this arrangement meant.






Under each bowl rested a crisp $100 dollar bill.  When that kind of treat was underneath, the gumbo was feverishly anticipated so we could lift up the tip of the bowl, slide out the brand new bill and stare at this sight rarely seen.


Breaux Bridge has a quaint B&B called "Maison des Amis".   It's just around the corner from the main road on a quiet side street.






If your looking for a 4-star abode, this is not it.  However, the absolute charm of the creaking wood floors,  mossy green shutters that extend from floor to ceiling, and moody light that filters softly into the dark art filled rooms is enchanting and romantic indeed.





There will be little doubt that one is far from any metropolitan hub.  The  stillness and quiet of Maison des Amis is captivating, alluring, and intriguing.





A long slanted porch outlines one side of the B&B, leading to the unmanicured and tangled back gardens.  I caught my breath when I saw a little kumquat tree sagging under the burgeoning weight of hundreds of tiny orbs of fruit.


I literally skipped down the steps and trotted over to the tree, promptly plucking a ripe kumquat off, closing my eyes dreamily, and popping it into my mouth with sheer anticipation of delight.









P. tried to do the same but after a few seconds, he spit it out.  Looking at me with wonder he couldn't understand my love for the overlapping taste of sweet mixed with sour.  Then, there is the conflicting texture of tart citrus peel intertwined with sweet juiciness.





We ate some deliciously spiced gumbo while in Breaux Bridge.  In addition to that all-important "roux", it's important to point out that the type of sausage used in gumbo is critical.








It just cannot be any type of sausage found in the market.  It really should be Andouille sausage.  This type of sausage is a heavily smoked spiced pork sausage.  It was brought to Louisiana by french immigrants and can be found readily in Louisiana.




Breaux Bridge is not the dream destination for all things perfectly touristy.   If you want a destination off the beaten track then this town is keenly laid out for a slow consumption of the cajun culture.


It is a town that introduces itself in layers of mystique and unravels itself upon chance meetings with the local shopkeepers, in tastes of the delicious food, and ... 


while hunting in Breaux Bridge's many antique shops!


Breaux Bridge was certainly dressed in its finest for the Mardi Gras celebrations that were well underway.  Shop fronts on main street were festively adorned with swaths of purple and green trimmings.


The antique stores lined up one after the other beckoning to be searched for treasures of bygone eras.




My list was starting to form of the treats that I would stir up in my kitchen when I returned home.  The more french-derived classic "Galette de Roi" had to be conquered.  And it was attempted, indulged and then shared here.




Most importantly, it was time for the annual hulking pot of gumbo on my stovetop.  This little town, tucked away in the boot of Louisiana, stirred up my cravings for the scents and tastes of this iconic cajun stew.  



Of course, as is with all cajuns who are of the stubborn persuasion (which is the overriding trait of most cajuns) I have my own tweaks and twists to my gumbo.




After making the roux, and then adding in the vegetables, okra, and spices, I keep all of the main ingredients cooked separately until the last 30 minutes.


I roast a chicken.  I grill the sausages.  I spice up the shrimp ~ all separately.  At the last 30 minutes before serving, everything goes into the pot.  Whole chicken legs, thighs, and wings are dropped in, chunky slices of sausage, and hulky Louisiana shrimp all slide into the pot.


I prefer adding these main ingredients at the end so there is variation in the gumbo and the distinct individual flavors don't all get diluted in the liquid too much.

And of course, gumbo is one of those soups that just gets better in the following days.


Enjoy mes amis!  





**Pleased to learn that my blog has been nominated as one of the choices for "Best Food Photography"  for this year's The Kitchn Homies. If you would like,  you can vote here.



Roasted Chicken, Andouille Sausage, Okra, and Spicy Shrimp Gumbo
(serves 8-10)
(adapted from the cajun cookbook, 'Talk About Good II')


1 large roasted chicken (I buy mine already roasted)
1 pound large shrimp, peeled (can be rubbed with cajun spices if desired)
1 large onion
1/2 cup chopped celery
1  cup of oil
1  cup of flour
1 (10 ounce) package frozen or fresh sliced okra
1 1/4 tablespoons salt
1/2 tablespoon black pepper
1 tablespoon red pepper
2 bay leaves
1-2 pounds smoked Andouille cajun sausage, spicy
parsley
onion tops
4 chicken bouillon cubes
filé (crushed sassafras leaves used for flavoring when serving) or crushed thyme leaves if you cannot find filé.


**Either roast your own chicken or buy one of the delicious already roasted chickens found in many of the U.S. markets. 


Cut up the onions and celery.  Make the roux in a heavy black iron skillet as follows:
Heat the oil for 3 minutes on medium-high heat and then add the flour slowly, stirring constantly.  Cook on medium-high heat until brown.  (Snippet's Note:  Be ready...this is a long process.  You might be stirring upwards of 45 minutes to get just the right milk chocolate brown color)


Turn heat to low and add the onions and celery and cook until soft.  Transfer roux, onions and celery to a large gumbo pot.   Add 2 quarts of water and bring to a boil.  Add the okra, salt, black pepper and red pepper and chicken bouillon cubes.


Cook 1 hour on simmer;  then skim the fat off the top. Cut up the roasted chicken leaving the legs, wings and thighs whole and add them to the pot.  Simmer for 30 minutes.  Add some parsley and onion tops and cook about 5 minutes.


A few minutes before serving add the sliced sausage and shrimp.  Cook until shrimp turn pink.  About 5 minutes.


Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste.


Ladle gumbo into individual bowls...adding whole chicken pieces evenly.  Typically, gumbo is served with a mound of rice in the middle of the bowl, but we like the rice in a little bowl off to the side.


Sprinkle each bowl with filé (if desired) for flavor.  Serve with a loaf of hot french bread.  Some cajuns like to sprinkle a bit of tabasco sauce for an added spicy "kick".

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Galette des Rois! because it's time for Mardi Gras !




"Allons mes cheries!  Laissez les bons temps rouler!  C'est la fête de Mardi Gras!"  


{Let's go my dears.  Let the good times roll.  It's the festival of Mardi Gras!}


These are the common phrases that are sung this time of year in the deep south of Louisiana.


Louisiana is famous for celebrating the start of the religious time called "Lent" with a festive series of parades, parties, and signature dishes that package quite the indulgent punch before the quiet stretch towards Easter.


Randol's Cajun Restaurant, Lafayette, Lousiana

P. and I had a weekend away and were able to catch some of the pre-celebration fun of Mardi Gras.


Randol's Cajun Restaurant is well known in the south for having a dance floor that attracts all varieties of serious feet shuffling cajun two-steppers.




The night that we dined at this famous restaurant, a "krewe" of revelers gathered together to step out on the dance floor in exquisite Mardi Gras style.



The mood on the dance floor was electric with joyful celebration and anticipation of a night full of good food, good friends, and fabulous cajun dancing.







While we were in town, earlier that day, I popped into my favorite southern bakery, Poupart's to see what goodies they had in store for the Mardi Gras festivities.  I wrote about and featured Poupart's Bakery here if you want to take a look at their deliciousness.


There was the usual "King's Cake" slathered with white frosting and sprinkled with purple and green sprinkles.  But off to the side, sat a more humble "Galette" that attracted me to its more classic style.


Between my taste buds being so tempted by the Mardi Gras offerings at the pastry shop and the exuberance of the wonderful cajun two-steppers on the dance floor that evening, I was ready to embrace the magic of this festive celebration.



I was completely enthralled with the evening's reveler's on the dance floor.  The energy was so contagious that I was transported somehow right onto the dance floor!  They welcomed me with open arms and I was enchanted by their hospitality.






This is a group of friends that celebrate Mardi Gras several weeks before the official holiday.  They are serious cajun two-steppers and the dance floor swished and swooned with their knowledge of historical cajun dances.






After joining in the fun for awhile, P. and I indulged in fried crab claws and a huge dish of boiled, seasoned, spicy crawfish.


Yum!  Is all I can say as every spicy bite was enjoyed with an icy cold beer.




I didn't buy one of the King's Cakes in Poupart's Bakery that morning.  Not that I didn't come away with a bakery box full of our favorites:  tiny blackberry and fig tarts, petit fours, and jars of delicious jams.

But, I knew I wanted to try out one of those more classic Galette des Rois myself.  






The tradition is to bake a small bean or oven proof token in the cake.  The youngest child gets to go under the table and call out who should receive each slice as it gets passed around.  The person who finds the token in his cake, is the wearer of a toy crown and is titled "King or Queen for the day".





I must admit, it took me three attempts to get this recipe right.   I didn't use enough puff pastry on the first attempt.  I also didn't pinch it sealed well enough around the edges, so the filling ran all over the oven.  


The second attempt, I accidentally turned the oven on the wrong temperature {too low} so the entire galette didn't {puff}, thus I faced yet another failure that slid into the trash.





Finally, P. stepped in to give me a helping hand.  He adores a kitchen challenge and between the two of us we created a success.  


And it was worth the frustration.  It was delicious.  The puff pastry was so warm and crispy.  The frangipane filling was so subtly sweet, nutty, and creamy.  






We spooned some cherry preserves into the filling and the slight fruitiness just finished off this beautiful dessert so well.


Happy Mardi Gras everyone!  Laissez les bons temps rouler!


Galette des Rois
(adapted from 'Life's A Feast' blog)


2 ½ oz (70 g) sugar (1/3 cup)
2 oz (60 g) (2 TBS) unsalted butter softened to room temperature
1 large egg
2 ½ oz (70 g) (2/3 cup)ground almonds or pistachios
¼ tsp vanilla
1 Tbs rum
2 Tbs cherry jam or preserves, optional
Egg wash (1 yolk whisked with 1 tsp cold water)
Icing/powdered sugar for dusting the top of the Galette

3 boxes of puff pastry sheets

Prepare the Frangipane filling:
Beat the sugar and butter together until fluffy. Beat in the egg, the ground almonds or pistachios, the vanilla and the rum. Add more vanilla or rum to taste, if desired. Place the filling in a small bowl covered with plastic wrap or in a lidded plastic container and refrigerate until ready to use. It needs to firm up before assembling the cake.

To prepare the Galette des Rois:
Roll out the puff pastry to a thickness of ½ inch (1 cm) and not less than 3/8 inch, long and wide enough to cut out two 8 ½-inch (21 cm) discs. {Snippet's Note:  this was my first mistake.  I didn't get the puff pastry thick enough.  It took us 3 boxes of puff pastry sheets} Using a cake tin or plate of about 8 ½-inches (21 cm) diameter and using a very sharp knife, trace and cut out two discs. Place each disc carefully on parchment-lined baking sheets, cover with plastic wrap and let rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.


Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). {Snippet's Notes:  When we make this again, we are going to raise the temperature to 450˚F to get the puff pastry to puff up}

Remove prepared rounds of puff pastry. Choose one to be the bottom of the cake and gently press the edges out a bit with your fingers to enlarge the circle slightly. Remove the chilled frangipane from the fridge and, if desired, swirl a tablespoon or two of cherry preserves through it and then mound in the center of the bottom disc of dough. Press it flat and out, using the back of a soupspoon, leaving about 1 ½ inches (4 cm) border of dough free around the edges. Press a fève, a ceramic charm of some sort, or even an old-fashioned dried bean or a coin into the almond cream.

Paint this wide edge of the dough around the frangipane filling lightly with the egg wash (too wet and the top disc may slide during baking). Gently place the second disc of dough on top of the filling placing the top and bottom discs edge to edge (so the edges meet all the way around), gently stretching the top disc if needed so the edges line up. Press to seal tightly. {Here goes my second mistake:  really be sure the two discs are sealed because the filling will ooze out...yep...big mess}

Place a bowl upside down on top of the discs – the bowl should come up to ½ to 1 inch from the edges. Using a sharp knife held perpendicular to the table, cut into the dough to create a scalloped edge to the cake. Now carefully carve a design into the top of the cake (not too deeply into the dough). Cut a small circle in the center of the top dough disc and insert a chimney (make a chimney out of parchment or foil or, as I did, use an upside down aluminum pastry bag tip).

Brush the top and sides of the dough with egg wash. Place in the hot oven and bake for 20 minutes until the pastry is puffed up and golden brown. If you think the pastry is 
browning too quickly, simply lay a piece of foil over the top


Reduce the oven temperature to 400°F (200°C) and continue baking for an additional 25 to 30 minutes until the sides of the pastry are also golden and crisp and the pastry is well risen.


Remove the Galette from the oven and move the rack up one notch. Protecting your hand with an oven mitt or kitchen towel, gently and carefully lift out the chimney. Generously dust the entire top surface of the Galette with powdered sugar (using a sieve or sifter) then place the pastry back in the oven. Now bake for around 5 minutes until the sugar has turned to a golden and very shiny glaze. Stand next to your oven and watch because it turns to the perfect glaze very quickly then in the flash of an eye burns! You must watch so you can pull it out of the oven just as the last of the top turns a gorgeous deep golden and not leave it one second longer.


Remove the Galette from the oven and slide the parchment paper off onto a cooling rack. Allow the Galette to cool before slicing and serving.

Monday, February 13, 2012

Blood Orange Mascarpone Tart...for Valentine's Day








When flipping through lovely magazines filled with tempting dishes, there is usually one photograph that  leaps off the page and begs my eyes to stare in delight. 


This is typically how the next dessert or dish here at "Snippets" is chosen.  Pure sensory overload from one photograph and I am swooning over the recipe.


It was in the recent issue of Martha Stewart's February "Living" that I had one of these definite encounters.





Blood Oranges.  Where have I been?  Why have I not seen the pyramids of them stacked at the market?  No matter I decided. Trivial oversight.  Inconsequential.  They are decidedly in my life now....those little gorgeous works of art.


I knew, without a doubt, my ode to Valentine's Day 2012 would be in the form of this Blood Orange Tart with its velvety rich mascarpone filling and a decadent crunchy chocolate crust.


I am often attracted to the hues of deep reds, oranges, and chocolatey browns...so it shouldn't surprise me that my eyes locked in on this tart as I was flipping the pages.


It's at this time of year that I pay special note to my Valentine's Day box.  This is sort of my adult version of all of those decorated boxes that we made as school children.  Remember those  tissue boxes covered with pretty paper and decorated with cut out pictures of flowers and candy?




My grown up Valentine's Day box is quite sturdier than those covered tissue boxes.  I found this red box {above, right} in an antique store when we lived in Michigan.


I gave it to Patrick for Valentine's Day that year.  I must have filled it with candy or chocolates.  I don't even remember.  It was the box that I was so attracted to.  Finding it tucked behind odds and ends at that antique store was thrilling and I thought it made a fabulous Valentine's Day gift.


The box sits out in our living room all year long.  Each Valentine's Day I put little lovely notes inside of it as keepsakes of that year.  Many are from P. and then there are sweet drawings and scribbles from the kids over the years.





Do you see this sunrise?  Can you believe it?  During my morning quiet time with coffee, I often catch the sunrise, but never have I seen a sight like this.  No editing was done on this photo.


I literally gasped in shock when I looked out the window.  I didn't know what to make of it but thank goodness I snapped a photo.  In an instant, the entire sky lit up as if it were on fire and then...poof...it was totally gone.


Was it a sign that I was intended to make this blood orange tart for Valentine's Day?  Was it a culinary sign??  I am not one to tempt the fates.


So.


Here it is.  Highly recommended.  We loved every single bite of it and I will make it again without doubt.


Happy Valentine's Day!  




Blood Orange Tart with Mascarpone Filling and Chocolate Crust
(adapted from Martha Stewart, Feb. 2012)


For the Tart Shell:
1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
Salt
1 stick unsalted butter, room temperature
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg yolk
3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 tablespoons heavy cream


Roasted Oranges and Filling:
5 Blood Oranges
1 1/4 cups fresh orange juice
1/3 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons water
1 cup (8 ounces) mascarpone cheese
2 teaspoons confectioners' sugar


Make the tart shell:  Sift together flour, cocoa powder, and 3/4 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl.  Beat butter and granulated sugar with a mixer on medium speed until pale and fluffy, about 3 minutes.  Beat in egg yolk and vanilla to combine, scraping down side of bowl if needed.


Reduce speed to low, and add flour mixture in 3 additions, alternating with cream and beginning and ending with flour mixture.  Shape dough into a disk, and refrigerate, wrapped in plastic wrap for 30 minutes.


Preheat oven to 350˚F.  Roll out dough to a little less than 1/4-inch thickness on a lightly floured surface.  Fit dough into a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom.  Tim edge flush with top edge of pan.  Chill in freezer until firm.


Prick bottom all over with a fork, and bake until firm about 20 minutes.  Let shell cool in pan on a wire rack.


Meanwhile, make the roasted oranges:  Reduce oven temperature to 325˚F.  Leaving peel on, cut 4 oranges into 1/4 inch rounds, and arrange in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet (Snippet's note:  I used 2 pans).  Pour 1/4 cup juice over oranges, cover tightly with parchment, then foil, and cook until peel in tender, about 2 hours (it took me @ 1 1/2 hours). Remove foil and parchment, and sprinkle oranges with sugar. Add remaining 1/4 cup juice, and roast oranges for 15 minutes.  Add water, and roast until slightly golden and dry, 2 to 3 minutes.  Cool completely.


Make the filling:  Finely grate zest from remaining orange, about 1 1/2 teaspoons, and stir together with mascarpone and confectioner's sugar.  Spread filling in tart shell, and arrange roasted oranges on top, overlapping slightly.  Enjoy!





Friday, February 10, 2012

Coq au Vin with Garlic Mashed Potatoes...a study of the classics







Coq au vin (rooster in red wine)





The schooling I had as a child must have influenced our decision to search for alternative ways of schooling in today's world.  I didn't quite realize this when we first decided to try homeschooling, but I can see now that there were many influences from my school years that swayed me to think differently about how our own kids would be educated.



Academy of the Sacred Heart, Grand Coteau, Louisiana



Being that the school was founded by French nuns, the french language and culture was built into our curriculum from day one.

I loved learning about everything french.  I was naturally attracted to languages.  I was naturally attracted to cultures...and with that comes...FOOD of other cultures! Naturally!






A few weeks ago, I had the occasion to return to my school.  I relished the quiet time  spent roaming the charming grounds.  A whirlwind of eight years of  memories swirled around in my mind.

It is amazing how much this school, deep in the countryside of southern Louisiana, remains unchanged by time.  I've lived far from the south since graduating and this was my second trip returning to my school.  

I could hear a gaggle of girls running up the little country road that brings students deep into the countryside, just as we used to do, running freely in between classes and enjoying the outdoors.






One of the memories that most stood out was of  my french teacher, Madame Simon.  She adored cooking and talking about french food.  Once, she decided that as a class, we were going to learn how to make the french classic "Coq au Vin".




Coq au vin is a classic french dish of chicken and red wine.  I would imagine it could be the equivalent of our beef stew as it is prepared similarly.

"Coq au Vin".  Just the name alone impelled my imagination to run a little wild and tantalized my senses.  We gathered in our school kitchen.  She had all of the ingredients ready for us.  On the list of ingredients was "red wine".  We crooned over this extravagant ingredient, "Red wine...How utterly sophisticated..."



I still recall the aroma of the onions and mushrooms, herbs and chicken all bubbling together.  The headiness of the red wine flavor was spectacular.  I had never tasted a dish so richly flavorful.  The memory of that day etched forever on my taste buds.  




The bulbous mushrooms, the tiny orbs of pearl onions, the crispness of the chicken skin all melded together in a richly scented red wine sauce that certainly left a culinary mark on my twelve year old self.




It's amusing how these first "tastes" in life leave such impressions.  Many of the dishes that I am attracted to have strong memories that pull me back to the time and place enjoyed.




Time. Place. Scents. Tastes.  Many are created from food experiences that are plated on a scrumptious series of life's dining experiences.





The beauty of the oak trees, with their lush manes of moss swaying in the breeze, painted a landscape of memories in my mind.   The old craggy barns, dappled horses, and mournful cows created bucolic backdrops for our long school days.  


So, too, memories of foods like coq au vin, dark molasses on thick cornbread, and tart kumquats plucked off  trees inbetween classes, write tasteful menus of savory experiences throughout life.





Oak Alley - Where graduation ceremonies are held


Coq au Vin just isn't quite complete, however, without its complement ~ mashed potatoes.


So, we roasted a head of garlic until the house was filled with its pungent aroma.  An ample handful of shredded Asiago cheese was gently folded into the steaming potatoes and ...


Voila.  Bon Appetit.  
Coq au Vin and Creamy Mashed Potatoes


Or~ a melding of memories so wonderfully  and richly experienced.




Classic Coq Au Vin (from 2002 Bon Appétit)
(4-6 servings)


Marinating Chicken:
1 750-ml bottle French Burgundy or California Pinot Noir
1 large onion, sliced
2 celery stalks, sliced
1 large carrot, peeled, sliced
1 large garlic clove, peeled, flattened
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 6-pound roasting chicken, backbone removed, cut into 8 pieces


Combine wine, onion, celery, carrot, garlic, and peppercorns in a large pot.  Bring to boil over high heat.  Reduce heat to medium and simmer 5 minutes.  Cool completely, mix in oil.  Place chicken pieces in large glass bowl.  Pour wine mixture over chicken;  stir to coat.  Cover and refrigerate at least 1 day and up to 2 days, turning chicken occasionally.


Cooking Chicken:
1 tablespoon olive oil
6 ounces thick-cut bacon slices, cut crosswise into strips
3 tablespoons all purpose flour
2 large shallots, chopped
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
4 large fresh thyme sprigs
4 large fresh parsley sprigs
2 small bay leaves
2 cups low-salt chicken broth


4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter
1 pound assorted fresh wild mushrooms
20 1-inch diamater pearl onions, or boiling onions, peeled


Using tongs, transfer chicken pieces from marinade to paper towels to drain, pat dry.  Strain marinade;  reserve vegetables and liquid separately.


Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat.  Add bacon and sauté until crisp and brown.  Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to small bowl.


Add chicken, skin side down, to drippings in pot.  Sauté until brown, about 8 minutes per side.  Transfer chicken to a large bowl.


Add vegetables reserved from marinade to pot.  Sauté until brown, about 10 minutes.  Mix in flour;  stir 2 minutes.  Gradually whisk in reserved marinade liquid.  Bring to boil, whisking frequently.


Cook until sauce thickens, whisking occasionally, about 2 minutes.


Mix in shallots, garlic, herb sprigs, and bay leaves, then broth.


Return chicken to pot, arranging skin side up.Bring to simmer; reduce heat to medium-low.  Cover pot and simmer chicken 30 minutes.  Using tongs, turn chicken over.  Cover and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes longer.


Meanwhile, melt 3 tablespoons butter in heavy large skillet over medium heat.  Add mushrooms, sauté until tender; about 8 minutes.  Transfer mushrooms to plate.  Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in same skillet.  Add onions and sauté until beginning to brown, about 8 minutes.  Transfer onions to plate alongside mushrooms;  reserve skillet.


Using tongs, transfer chicken to plate.  Strain sauce from pot into reserved skillet, pressing on solids in strainer to extract all sauce.  Discard solids.  


Bring sauce to simmer, scraping up browned bits.  Return sauce to pot.  Add onions to pot and bring to simmer over medium heat.  Cover and cook until onions are almost tender, about 8 minutes.  Add mushrooms and bacon.  Simmer uncovered until onions are very tender and sauce is slightly reduced, about 12 minutes.


Tilt pot and spoon off excess fat from top of sauce.  Season sauce with salt and pepper.  Return chicken to sauce. (Can be made 1 day ahead)


Arrange chicken on large rimmed platter.  Spoon sauce and vegetables over.  Sprinkle with parsley.


Garlic and Asiago Cheese Mashed Potatoes:
(4-6 servings)


4 medium to large russet potatoes (about 3 pounds/1.35 kg total), peeled and each cut into 8 equal pieces
11 tablespoons/150 g salted butter, room temperature
1 cup/235 ml whole milk
1 whole roasted garlic head
1 cup shredded asiago cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper


Place the potatoes in a pot of boiling salted water and cook for about 20 minutes or until the potatoes are soft.  Strain the potatoes in a colander and allow them to steam dry in the colander for 5 minutes. 


Working in batches, press the potatoes and butter through a potato ricer and into the same pot.  Mix in the milk to form a smooth and fluffy consistency.  Using a mortar and pestle, or the back of a fork, mash the garlic into a paste. 
Stir the garlic paste into the potatoes. 


Fold in the shredded Asiago cheese.  Season the potatoes to taste with salt and pepper. Cover the potatoes and keep them warm.
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